Showing posts with label Marilyn Monroe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Marilyn Monroe. Show all posts

Sunday, October 5, 2014

Gordon Parks in Hollywood: An African-American Photographer

This is our first entry on a black photographer.   We hold no prejudices are to be found here on this blog.  And Parks also became a writer and director later in life.


Gordon Roger Alexander Buchanan Parks was born on November 30, 1912 in Fort Scott, Kansas. He was the last child of Sarah (nee Ross) and Jackson Parks. His father was a hard-working farmer.  He attended a segregated elementary school. At the time, blacks were not encouraged to further their education.  Parks related in a documentary on his life that his teacher told him that his desire to go to college would be a waste of money.  He had a rough childhood and when he was fourteen, his mother died.  He was then sent to live with relatives.  That, however, did not work out and he found himself out on the streets soon after.


In 1929, he briefly worked in a gentlemen's club, the Minnesota Club.  And he later went to Chicago and worked at a flophouse.   These two jobs allowed him to see many different kinds of people who would later influence his work.  At the age of twenty-five, Parks was struck by photographs of migrant workers in a magazine and bought his first camera, a Voigtländer Brillant, for $12.50 at a Seattle, Washington, pawnshop. The photography clerks who developed Parks' first roll of film, applauded his work and prompted him to seek a fashion assignment at a women's clothing store in St. Paul, Minnesota, that was owned by Frank Murphy. Those photographs caught the eye of Marva Louis, the elegant wife of heavyweight boxing champion Joe Louis. She encouraged Parks to move to Chicago more permanently in 1940, where he began a portrait business and specialized in photographs of society women.


Over the next few years, he would find himself working freelance.  Then he got his first big break with chronicling the black ghetto and exhibiting his photographs in 1941.  For this, he received fellowship with the Farm Security Administration. 


Working as a trainee under Roy Stryker, Parks created one of his best-known photographs, American Gothic, Washington, D.C., named after the iconic Grant Wood painting, American Gothic. The photograph shows a black woman, Ella Watson, who worked on the cleaning crew of the FSA building, standing stiffly in front of an American flag hanging on the wall, a broom in one hand and a mop in the background. Parks had been inspired to create the image after encountering racism repeatedly in restaurants and shops in the segregated capital city.


After the FSA disbanded, Parks remained in Washington, D.C. as a correspondent with the Office of War Information.  Finally, disgusted with the prejudice he encountered, however, he resigned in 1944.  Moving to Harlem, Parks became a freelance fashion photographer for Vogue. He later followed Stryker to the  Standard Oil Photography Project in New Jersey, which assigned photographers to take pictures of small towns and industrial centers. He did photographic essays of these towns and people. 


Parks renewed his search for photography jobs in the fashion world. Despite racist attitudes of the day, the Vogue editor, Alexander Liberman, hired him to shoot a collection of evening gowns. Parks photographed fashion for Vogue for the next few years and he developed the distinctive style of photographing his models in motion rather than poised. During this time, he published his first two books, Flash Photography (1947) and Camera Portraits: Techniques and Principles of Documentary Portraiture (1948).


A 1948 photographic essay on a young Harlem gang leader won Parks a staff job as a photographer and writer with Life Magazine.  He was the first African American to do so for the magazine. For twenty years, Parks produced photographs on subjects including fashion, sports, Broadway, poverty, and racial segregation, as well as portraits of Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and Barbara Streisand. He became "one of the most provocative and celebrated photojournalists in the United States."


His upbringing is superbly brought to paper with his autobiographical best-seller, The Learning Tree.  (It was also made into a film later).  It was Life photographer Carl Mydans who suggested he write about his rugged childhood years in Kansas.


Parks should not be forgotten though as one of the great photographers in Hollywood.  In addition to the other people aforementioned, he photographed Ingrid Bergman and Marilyn Monroe among others.  Those are the ones, of course, we will focus on here.


He says: "I accepted my success with Vogue and Life with peace," at the time he worked behind a photographer's camera.  "Assignments to Hollywood during the years to follow proved to be the bulwark of my existence.  While watching films unfold, I found myself directing without actually directing.  Within bright and soft lights, I was subconsciously placing actors where I alone wanted to see them.  'Two lovers waltzed without moving.  An elm tree took wings and flew away through a cyclone.'  Each assignment  provided new challenges." 


Eventually, Parks would direct, write screenplays and even do the musical scores to films like his own, "The Learning Tree," "Shaft" and his son would also prove to be a director of films like "Superfly." 


Parks was married and divorced three times. Parks married Sally Alvis in Minneapolis during 1933 and they divorced in 1961. He married Elizabeth Campbell in 1962 and they divorced in 1973. Parks first met Genevieve Young in 1962 when he began writing The Learning Tree. At that time, his publisher assigned her to be his editor. They became romantically involved at a time when they both were divorcing previous spouses, and married in 1973. They divorced in 1979. For many years, Parks was romantically involved with Gloria Vanderbilt, the railroad heiress and designer. Their relationship evolved into a deep friendship that endured throughout his lifetime.


Parks fathered four children: Gordon, Jr., David, Leslie, and Toni (Parks-Parsons). His oldest son Gordon Parks, Jr., whose talents resembled his father's, was killed in a plane crash in 1979 in Kenya, where he had gone to direct a film. Parks has five grandchildren: Alain, Gordon III, Sarah, Campbell, and Satchel. Malcolm X honored Parks when he asked him to be the godfather of his daughter, Qubilah Shabazz.


Gordon Parks received more than twenty honorary doctorates in his lifetime.  He died of cancer at the age of 93 while living in Manhattan and is buried in his hometown of Fort Scott, Kansas on March 7, 2006.

Eartha Kitt:

 
 
 
Marilyn Monroe:
 
 
 

 
 
Dorothy Dandridge:
 
 
Andy Warhol:
 
 
Ingrid Bergman:
 
 
Hugh Grant:
 
 
The man himself:
 
 
 
 

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

John Engstead: A Total Professional with Celebrities and More

John Engstead was born on September 22, 1909 (some say 1912) in Los Angeles, California.  Engstead began his career in 1926, when he was hired as an office boy by Paramount Pictures' head of studio publicity, Harold Harley.

In 1927, Engstead pleased his boss by arranging a photo session for actress Clara Bow with photographer Otto Dyer using an outdoor garden setting which was unusual at that time. The resulting photographs hailed Harley as "Clara Bow's best sitting."

In 1928, in response to fan magazine requests, Engstead appointed Paramount magazine contact that he wear a suit and tie every day.

Engstead's creative direction of photographs of actress Louise Brooks led to a promotion to art supervisor, where he oversaw the production of Paramount's publicity stills.

In 1932, due to a strike by photographers, Engstead assumed the position of studio portrait photographer, despite having never previously photographed anyone. Actor Cary Grant posed for his practice shots. He returned to his job as art supervisor after the strike was resolved.

In 1941, Paramount Pictures fired Engstead, and Harper's Bazaar hired him for freelance advertising and portrait photography assignments. From 1941 to 1949, he took fashion photography assignments from numerous other magazines, including Collier's, Esquire, House Beautiful, Ladies Home Journal, Life, Look, Mademoiselle, McCall's, Vogue, and Women's Home Companion.

In the 1940s, Engstead photographed many celebrities, including Joan Crawford, Bette Davis, Maureen O'Hara and Shirley Temple. Unlike other photographers, he often shot his subjects at home or outdoors, and his portraits of a young Judy Garland in Carmel, California were particularly successful. During this decade, he built a studio in Los Angeles that became a gathering place for celebrities.

He remembered the stars well.  Marlene Dietrich, to whom he later became her official photographer for her celebrated one-woman show, recalled that for her last film with von Sternberg, Paramount's "The Devil is a Woman" (1935), the designer Travis Baton and Dietrich produced an enormous Spanish comb which supported a large mantilla.  The comb was anchored to Dietrich's head with wire cutters, and "Marlen fell forward, arms and head resting on her dressing table, exhausted from pain.  When she came up, tears were running down her face."

Another was Gary Cooper.  Engstead supervised Cooper's sessions when they were both at Paramount and he photographed him a great deal in later years, he had this revealing insight on Cooper:  "Cooper knew more about how to be photographed than any other man I know.  The way he handled his face and his six-toot-three-inch frame led me to surmise that he must have done considerable homework.... He moved with the grace of a panther.  I don't think he either liked or disliked photographic sessions, but he endured them because he realized that they were part of his business... One thing that made it easy for Cooper to make stills was his appreciation that cameras photograph the mind.... Cooper carried this professionalism to the care of his body, which he kept in top physical condition until his last illness."

Carole Lombard, who bought most of her clothes with the still camera in mind, was a photographer's delight.  She approached each sitting with almost as much care as a screen role. She would meet with the photographer perhaps a week before each session to discuss the type of photographs that would be taken, te backgrounds, the wardrobe she should get for it.  In her eight years at Paramount the studio released more than seventeen hundred portraits of her--and this does not include all the other types of stills and portraits taken when she was on loan-out to other studios.   Engstead, who adored Lombard and loved working with her, praised her contribution to the success of her portraits:  "Carole always gave her complete cooperation.  she loved good photographs--knew about lighting and how to pose--and had no inhibitions about being photographed, so it was possible to shoot her any way you wanted and she gave all the time it needed."

He also photographed an up and coming star named Sharon Tate.  His photographs of her are timeless and he says: "She was a sweet girl.  I hated how she died."

From 1942 to 1954, he photographed celebrity clients outdoors and at home, an innovation in fashion photography.  Then he  photographed the annual spring and fall collections for Adrian.

From 1959 to 1970, he continued commercial work and society portraiture. 

Engstead continued to photograph movie stars and other celebrities through the 1950s (Marilyn Monroe) and 1960s. He produced promotional material for many television personalities, including Pat Boone, Carmel Quinn, Donna Reed, Ozzie and Harriet, Eve Arden, and Lucille Ball. He also shot cover photos for albums recorded by singers such as Peggy Lee and Connie Francis.. His work extended into governmental figures in the 1950s, including then-Second Lady Pat Nixon. Engstead closed his studio in 1970 but continued to accept special portrait and television assignments until his death on April 15, 1984 at age 72 in West Hollywood, California.

Engstead's images are represented by the Motion Picture and Television Photo Archive and can be viewed by the public at MPTV.net.  Also, he is listed in books such as Star Shots, Masters of Starlight and The Art of the Great Hollywood Portrait Photograghers by Kobal.

Ingrid Bergman

Natalie Wood

Marilyn Monroe

Carole Lombard

Audrey Hepburn

Cary Grant

Hedy Lamarr

 Gary Cooper
 
 
Marlene Dietrich

Sharon Tate

Elizabeth Taylor

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Eric Carpenter: Sexy Ava Gardner Photographer Among Others

Eric Carpenter was born July 8, 1909 and as a young man he began working as a plasterer during the depression. 

Eric Carpenter worked at MGM, aside from a couple of short breaks, from 1933 to the 1960s.  Elevated from office boy, he succeeded Virgil Apger as Bull's assistant and continued in that capacity until he got his union card.

"(I did this) on the condition that I worked in the gallery and not as a still or publicity photographer, because that area was all sewn up.  I didn't have my own gallery, so I set up one on the set and shot there.  That was the end of 1939.

My first solo assignment--and this was a case of make or break--was to photograph Norma Shearer.  She was trying out new photographers at the time and she wanted someone loyal to her.  If she approved, I was in.  Lucky for me she did.  We did an outside session down by her beach house.  I had already learned a lot by watching Hurrell and Bull, but my 'style' was trial and error."

He finally became a portrait photographer at precisely the moment when MGM was cultivating a new crop of stars--Lana Turnerr, Esther Williams and the popular team Judy Garland and Mickey Rooney.  A decade later Carpenter photographed Marilyn Monroe when she made 'The Asphalt Jungle' (1950).  He 'photographed her,' wrote Kobal, 'in a pose and clinging dress similar to what he'd successfully used with Lana Turner, most of whose poses had been variations of those dreamed up for Harlow.' In an interview after he retired, Carpenter told Kobal, "The stars were about the only ones who appreciated what you were trying to do.  As far as the producers and executives were concerned, it was just publicity.  They couldn't have cared less."

He also worked as a uncredited still photographer on many great films including 'The Wizard of Oz' for which he did some wonderful Kodachrome stills, 'Singing in the Rain,' 'The Swan'--Grace Kelly's last film--'Gigi', 'Ben Hur,' and 'Please Don't Eat the Daisies' with Doris Day.

With his spirited and beautiful portraits, Carpenter quickly became the favorite photographer of the studio's rising young stars, like Ava Gardner and James Craig, among others.  His rapport with Lana Turner began when she signed with MGM and lasted up to her departure from the studio in the late fifties.  Carpenter was responsible for the most of her torrid, memorable gallery portrait sittings.  His photographs of her are lush and immediate in dazzling whites and sophisticated, plungingly deep backs.  More dynamic than almost any of the other glamour portraits of the era, their effect recalled the Harlow portraits and and anticipated the ones of Monroe at Fox in the early fifties--acres of white fur, opalescent skin, poses inviting by thier ease.

Carpenter once explained:

"The only secret of good work is to get the star to have confidence in you so that you can try to do something interesting.  Stars appreciated what you were trying to do.  The publicity department kept asking for glorified passport photos, which was what the newspapers could use.  It was a fight to get some shading into those pictures."

After the war Carpenter left the profession to join his brother in the shipyard business, but by 1950 he went back at MGM, this time as a production still photographer--a job he held until his retirement in the sixties--working on films like 'Quentin Durward' (1955), 'Beau Brummel (1954), and 'Mutiny on the Bounty' (1962).

He passed away on June 16, 1976 at the age of 66 in Hollywood, California.

Here are some examples of his work:

Clark Gable

Anna Neagle
 
Kathryn Grayson
 
Ann Southern



Ann Southern
 
Ava Gardner and Ava with her then husband, Mickey Rooney below:
 
 

Cyd Charisse

 
 
Elizabeth Taylor

Grace Kelly

Joan Crawford
 
Yvonne DeCarlo

Marilyn Monroe
 
Judy Garland



Lana Turner
 

 
Lucille Ball

 
James Steward

His Stamp