Showing posts with label Ingrid Bergman. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ingrid Bergman. Show all posts

Sunday, October 5, 2014

Gordon Parks in Hollywood: An African-American Photographer

This is our first entry on a black photographer.   We hold no prejudices are to be found here on this blog.  And Parks also became a writer and director later in life.


Gordon Roger Alexander Buchanan Parks was born on November 30, 1912 in Fort Scott, Kansas. He was the last child of Sarah (nee Ross) and Jackson Parks. His father was a hard-working farmer.  He attended a segregated elementary school. At the time, blacks were not encouraged to further their education.  Parks related in a documentary on his life that his teacher told him that his desire to go to college would be a waste of money.  He had a rough childhood and when he was fourteen, his mother died.  He was then sent to live with relatives.  That, however, did not work out and he found himself out on the streets soon after.


In 1929, he briefly worked in a gentlemen's club, the Minnesota Club.  And he later went to Chicago and worked at a flophouse.   These two jobs allowed him to see many different kinds of people who would later influence his work.  At the age of twenty-five, Parks was struck by photographs of migrant workers in a magazine and bought his first camera, a Voigtländer Brillant, for $12.50 at a Seattle, Washington, pawnshop. The photography clerks who developed Parks' first roll of film, applauded his work and prompted him to seek a fashion assignment at a women's clothing store in St. Paul, Minnesota, that was owned by Frank Murphy. Those photographs caught the eye of Marva Louis, the elegant wife of heavyweight boxing champion Joe Louis. She encouraged Parks to move to Chicago more permanently in 1940, where he began a portrait business and specialized in photographs of society women.


Over the next few years, he would find himself working freelance.  Then he got his first big break with chronicling the black ghetto and exhibiting his photographs in 1941.  For this, he received fellowship with the Farm Security Administration. 


Working as a trainee under Roy Stryker, Parks created one of his best-known photographs, American Gothic, Washington, D.C., named after the iconic Grant Wood painting, American Gothic. The photograph shows a black woman, Ella Watson, who worked on the cleaning crew of the FSA building, standing stiffly in front of an American flag hanging on the wall, a broom in one hand and a mop in the background. Parks had been inspired to create the image after encountering racism repeatedly in restaurants and shops in the segregated capital city.


After the FSA disbanded, Parks remained in Washington, D.C. as a correspondent with the Office of War Information.  Finally, disgusted with the prejudice he encountered, however, he resigned in 1944.  Moving to Harlem, Parks became a freelance fashion photographer for Vogue. He later followed Stryker to the  Standard Oil Photography Project in New Jersey, which assigned photographers to take pictures of small towns and industrial centers. He did photographic essays of these towns and people. 


Parks renewed his search for photography jobs in the fashion world. Despite racist attitudes of the day, the Vogue editor, Alexander Liberman, hired him to shoot a collection of evening gowns. Parks photographed fashion for Vogue for the next few years and he developed the distinctive style of photographing his models in motion rather than poised. During this time, he published his first two books, Flash Photography (1947) and Camera Portraits: Techniques and Principles of Documentary Portraiture (1948).


A 1948 photographic essay on a young Harlem gang leader won Parks a staff job as a photographer and writer with Life Magazine.  He was the first African American to do so for the magazine. For twenty years, Parks produced photographs on subjects including fashion, sports, Broadway, poverty, and racial segregation, as well as portraits of Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and Barbara Streisand. He became "one of the most provocative and celebrated photojournalists in the United States."


His upbringing is superbly brought to paper with his autobiographical best-seller, The Learning Tree.  (It was also made into a film later).  It was Life photographer Carl Mydans who suggested he write about his rugged childhood years in Kansas.


Parks should not be forgotten though as one of the great photographers in Hollywood.  In addition to the other people aforementioned, he photographed Ingrid Bergman and Marilyn Monroe among others.  Those are the ones, of course, we will focus on here.


He says: "I accepted my success with Vogue and Life with peace," at the time he worked behind a photographer's camera.  "Assignments to Hollywood during the years to follow proved to be the bulwark of my existence.  While watching films unfold, I found myself directing without actually directing.  Within bright and soft lights, I was subconsciously placing actors where I alone wanted to see them.  'Two lovers waltzed without moving.  An elm tree took wings and flew away through a cyclone.'  Each assignment  provided new challenges." 


Eventually, Parks would direct, write screenplays and even do the musical scores to films like his own, "The Learning Tree," "Shaft" and his son would also prove to be a director of films like "Superfly." 


Parks was married and divorced three times. Parks married Sally Alvis in Minneapolis during 1933 and they divorced in 1961. He married Elizabeth Campbell in 1962 and they divorced in 1973. Parks first met Genevieve Young in 1962 when he began writing The Learning Tree. At that time, his publisher assigned her to be his editor. They became romantically involved at a time when they both were divorcing previous spouses, and married in 1973. They divorced in 1979. For many years, Parks was romantically involved with Gloria Vanderbilt, the railroad heiress and designer. Their relationship evolved into a deep friendship that endured throughout his lifetime.


Parks fathered four children: Gordon, Jr., David, Leslie, and Toni (Parks-Parsons). His oldest son Gordon Parks, Jr., whose talents resembled his father's, was killed in a plane crash in 1979 in Kenya, where he had gone to direct a film. Parks has five grandchildren: Alain, Gordon III, Sarah, Campbell, and Satchel. Malcolm X honored Parks when he asked him to be the godfather of his daughter, Qubilah Shabazz.


Gordon Parks received more than twenty honorary doctorates in his lifetime.  He died of cancer at the age of 93 while living in Manhattan and is buried in his hometown of Fort Scott, Kansas on March 7, 2006.

Eartha Kitt:

 
 
 
Marilyn Monroe:
 
 
 

 
 
Dorothy Dandridge:
 
 
Andy Warhol:
 
 
Ingrid Bergman:
 
 
Hugh Grant:
 
 
The man himself:
 
 
 
 

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

John Engstead: A Total Professional with Celebrities and More

John Engstead was born on September 22, 1909 (some say 1912) in Los Angeles, California.  Engstead began his career in 1926, when he was hired as an office boy by Paramount Pictures' head of studio publicity, Harold Harley.

In 1927, Engstead pleased his boss by arranging a photo session for actress Clara Bow with photographer Otto Dyer using an outdoor garden setting which was unusual at that time. The resulting photographs hailed Harley as "Clara Bow's best sitting."

In 1928, in response to fan magazine requests, Engstead appointed Paramount magazine contact that he wear a suit and tie every day.

Engstead's creative direction of photographs of actress Louise Brooks led to a promotion to art supervisor, where he oversaw the production of Paramount's publicity stills.

In 1932, due to a strike by photographers, Engstead assumed the position of studio portrait photographer, despite having never previously photographed anyone. Actor Cary Grant posed for his practice shots. He returned to his job as art supervisor after the strike was resolved.

In 1941, Paramount Pictures fired Engstead, and Harper's Bazaar hired him for freelance advertising and portrait photography assignments. From 1941 to 1949, he took fashion photography assignments from numerous other magazines, including Collier's, Esquire, House Beautiful, Ladies Home Journal, Life, Look, Mademoiselle, McCall's, Vogue, and Women's Home Companion.

In the 1940s, Engstead photographed many celebrities, including Joan Crawford, Bette Davis, Maureen O'Hara and Shirley Temple. Unlike other photographers, he often shot his subjects at home or outdoors, and his portraits of a young Judy Garland in Carmel, California were particularly successful. During this decade, he built a studio in Los Angeles that became a gathering place for celebrities.

He remembered the stars well.  Marlene Dietrich, to whom he later became her official photographer for her celebrated one-woman show, recalled that for her last film with von Sternberg, Paramount's "The Devil is a Woman" (1935), the designer Travis Baton and Dietrich produced an enormous Spanish comb which supported a large mantilla.  The comb was anchored to Dietrich's head with wire cutters, and "Marlen fell forward, arms and head resting on her dressing table, exhausted from pain.  When she came up, tears were running down her face."

Another was Gary Cooper.  Engstead supervised Cooper's sessions when they were both at Paramount and he photographed him a great deal in later years, he had this revealing insight on Cooper:  "Cooper knew more about how to be photographed than any other man I know.  The way he handled his face and his six-toot-three-inch frame led me to surmise that he must have done considerable homework.... He moved with the grace of a panther.  I don't think he either liked or disliked photographic sessions, but he endured them because he realized that they were part of his business... One thing that made it easy for Cooper to make stills was his appreciation that cameras photograph the mind.... Cooper carried this professionalism to the care of his body, which he kept in top physical condition until his last illness."

Carole Lombard, who bought most of her clothes with the still camera in mind, was a photographer's delight.  She approached each sitting with almost as much care as a screen role. She would meet with the photographer perhaps a week before each session to discuss the type of photographs that would be taken, te backgrounds, the wardrobe she should get for it.  In her eight years at Paramount the studio released more than seventeen hundred portraits of her--and this does not include all the other types of stills and portraits taken when she was on loan-out to other studios.   Engstead, who adored Lombard and loved working with her, praised her contribution to the success of her portraits:  "Carole always gave her complete cooperation.  she loved good photographs--knew about lighting and how to pose--and had no inhibitions about being photographed, so it was possible to shoot her any way you wanted and she gave all the time it needed."

He also photographed an up and coming star named Sharon Tate.  His photographs of her are timeless and he says: "She was a sweet girl.  I hated how she died."

From 1942 to 1954, he photographed celebrity clients outdoors and at home, an innovation in fashion photography.  Then he  photographed the annual spring and fall collections for Adrian.

From 1959 to 1970, he continued commercial work and society portraiture. 

Engstead continued to photograph movie stars and other celebrities through the 1950s (Marilyn Monroe) and 1960s. He produced promotional material for many television personalities, including Pat Boone, Carmel Quinn, Donna Reed, Ozzie and Harriet, Eve Arden, and Lucille Ball. He also shot cover photos for albums recorded by singers such as Peggy Lee and Connie Francis.. His work extended into governmental figures in the 1950s, including then-Second Lady Pat Nixon. Engstead closed his studio in 1970 but continued to accept special portrait and television assignments until his death on April 15, 1984 at age 72 in West Hollywood, California.

Engstead's images are represented by the Motion Picture and Television Photo Archive and can be viewed by the public at MPTV.net.  Also, he is listed in books such as Star Shots, Masters of Starlight and The Art of the Great Hollywood Portrait Photograghers by Kobal.

Ingrid Bergman

Natalie Wood

Marilyn Monroe

Carole Lombard

Audrey Hepburn

Cary Grant

Hedy Lamarr

 Gary Cooper
 
 
Marlene Dietrich

Sharon Tate

Elizabeth Taylor

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

The Great MGM Still Photographer and Academy Award Winner: Virgil Apger

Virgil Apger was born in Indiana on June 25, 1903.  Apger interest in photography began when he was a child in Goodland, Idaho.  His father, the local sheriff, took photographs of the town's criminals.  Apger worked as an usher and assistant to the projectionist of the town's only movie theatre.  His first job in films was as a transportation man and laborer for the Mack Sennett Studios.  In 1929 his brother-in-law, Eugene Robert Richee, who was head of the portrait gallery at Paramount, hired Apger as his assistant.  Apger developed Richee's negatives, worked with the dryers, and made prints.  He recalled: "Gene never left a sitting with fewer than a hundred negatives, which had to be retouched and printed."

He assisted Richee for a time and then went to work for MGM in 1931 doing the same thing Richee had done for years.  He was an assistant to Clarence Sinclair Bull for awhile. He described what it was like working for Bull:

When Bull worked with Garbo, I was the guy changing lights and generally assisting Clarence.  Garbo liked to take things easy.  She was a natural model.  All Clarence had to do was to set the light and squeeze the bulb.  Hurrell's method wouldn't have worked with Garbo--she didn't like any fussing.  There would just be the three of us on her sittings--Clarence, me and the electrician.  Bull would suggest ideas to her, but mostly she would bring the expressions that she had from the movie.

These portraits of Garbo usually lasted half a day each, depending on the costumes and hairstyles worn for her character in the film.  Apger described the mood of these sessions:

"Garbo would arrive quietly.  We would be getting things ready and setting up lights, and maybe an hour would pass and we wouldn't realize she was there.  She liked one sort of lighting, high-key and very little fill.  Garbo didn't tell people what to do, but that's what she liked.  One key light and one top light.  We used a long 14-inch or 22-inch lens to get those close-ups.  She didn't like the camera too close because she'd get too conscious of it.  Sometimes Bull might suggest an idea.  They were nicely tuned to each other."

Soon Jean Harlow gave Apger his start as a production still photographer by requested him to shoot photos on "China Seas" (1935).  He had already worked for the publicity department.  From then on he shot the stills on all her films.  "Doing stills was invaluable training for gallery work," Apger explained.

Apger's enthusiasm on the set made him extremely popular with the stars, and Greer Garson, whose films he worked on, requested him for her portait photographer.

He is noteworthy in Oscar history as well for being the only photographer to receive an Academy Award for "Mrs. Miniver" in 1942 for Best Production Still.

Later, he was put in charge of the portrait gallery in 1947 for MGM, superseding C. S. Bull in that department and for the next 20 years he shot all of their stars: Esther Williams, Clark Gable, Lana Turner, Greer Garson, Judy Garland, Robert Taylor, Joan Crawford, Barbara Stanwyck, Kay Kendall, Stewart Granger, Ava Gardner, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor.  Between 1948 and 1952, Apger had the distiction of having more magazine covers--among them, Life, Look and Photoplay--than all of the other photographers at all of the other studios combined.

Apger's work--stylish, glamours, imaginative--stood apart even in the lackluster fifties.  Here are some of his reflections on is profession and the stars he worked with:

Once you got her into the gallery, Esther Williams loved being photograhed and fell into a pose with great ease.  Hedy Lamarr couldn't she though she knew it all and was forever telling you what to do.  She was beautiful--she had great skin texture--but I don't recall anybody saying they enjoyed shooting her.  She never came alive, except to keep making damned uncouth remarks to the people I had around me.

Now Joan Crawford was a swell person to work with.  So was Ava Gardner.  She was open to ideas, ready for anything.  She wasn't just beautiful.  She knew that we had a lot of people to please and she would cooperate all the way.  People like that keep you fresh in your work.

As Hollywood photography changed in the 1950s and 1960s, and sharp lenses, flat light and stiff poses became the norm, Apger continued to stay true to the MGM tradition.  When Elvis Presely came to MGM to make 'Jailhouse Rock' in 1957, he got the studio's typical glamour treatment, including a portrait session with Apger.

He had a long career photographing stars on the set of great classics and as a portrait photographer, photographing many sexy shots of Ava Gardner in fishnet stockings and leotards.  Gardner was one of his favorite subjects.  Their work together is comparable to that of Hurrell's work with Crawford or that of Bull's work with Garbo but with more sexuality, glamour and a friendly sort of approachability.

Some of the many films he did still photography for are: "Spinout", "Bells Are Ringing", "That Forsyte Woman," "Julia Misbehaves", "A Date with Judy", "Homecoming", "Eyes in the Night," and the all time classic favorite, "The Wizard of Oz."

He also took photos of Debbie Reynolds, Bette Davis, Marlon Brando, Arlene Dahl, Ann Blyth, Ginger Rogers, Judy Garland, Ingrid Bergman, Cary Grant, and the Marx Brothers among others.

By the late 1950s, however, after MGM's last great productions, like the 1959 re-make of 'Ben Hur, glamour was over in Hollywood and Apger's departure in 1969 coincided with MGM's takeover by Kirk Kerkorian, which closed the door on the past forever.

When Apger retired from his job as MGM's gallery portrait photographer in 1969, he had been there for 40 years.  For twenty of those years he was the only gallery photographer on the lot. 

He died at the ripe old age of 90 in San Diego, California on May 19, 1994.

Here is a look back at his work:

Debbie Reynolds
Claire Bloom

Elvis Presley

Esther Williams

Ava Gardner


Jean Harlow and Clark Gable


Grace Kelly


Janet Leigh

Elizabeth Taylor







Deborah Kerr


Clark Gable

Jeanette MacDonald
Examples of Apger's official MGM stamp and a press snipe.

Virginia Bruce and the back of the photo below: